外地工夫10月2日,Isabel Marant(伊莎贝尔·玛兰)于巴黎古装周发布2016春夏系列。本季设计师描画了一个经历丰厚的游览者,她的设计灵感来源于她放纵不羁的生长阅历,这类阅历让深藏于内心的历史与宗教信仰与古代的开放主义相碰撞,所以你看到了深远平地上的藏袍,又忽地转为波光粼粼的金银太空装。
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Issey Miyake 2016春夏系列古装秀
外地工夫10月2日,Issey Miyake(三宅终身)于巴黎古装周发布2016春夏系列。本季设计师恍如在给大家演示了一堂精彩的色采教学,将大块的色彩拼接起来,与大波浪的弹力褶皱结分解具有冲击力的视觉体验,自然纤维的流苏与大地色彩让泥洋气息扑面而来,你真的会以为“三宅终身”的名字真的跟宅子有关。
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Christian Dior 2016春夏系列古装秀
外地工夫10月2日,Christian Dior(克丽斯汀·迪奥)于巴黎古装周发布2016春夏系列。将来瞻望:明晰而纯洁的线条,充溢自然美感,将往昔的眼光投放至将来天际。Dior迪奥创意总监拉夫·西蒙设计的的2016年春夏成衣系列摒弃了诸多浮华元素,聚焦于纯洁的线条和精准的技术工艺,将作风自但是流利地引导至将来世界。
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“我希望本系列可以彰显出一种纯洁的气质”,拉夫·西蒙如是说。“这是一个极致繁复的系列,其主打作风是在诠释女性魅力的娇柔和理性的同时,仍然保存其气力与影响力;这类繁复的气质其实仅局限于作风外表,由于本系列中的每款作品都凝聚了极致复杂的技术工艺。绝不夸大的讲,这是一种充溢时空感的衣饰,将维多利亚作风的亵服、斜边裁剪的通明连身裙、Bar套装和毛边网眼奇妙混搭为一体。这类组合方式既充溢奇特的将来主义作风,又挥洒出另类的浪漫主义气味,就仿佛这位女郎行将踏上一段穿越时空的旅程。”
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既理性又有序、既妩媚又阳刚,经典本质与古代气质在本系列中完善融会,孕育出一种更加柔和而纯洁的全新古代主义特点。极富历史气味的作风与工艺打造出充溢适用主义特点且男女通用的共同服装,往昔的碎片与本日的世界在这一进程中互相碰撞,擦出火花。女式套装与男士西服融为一体,用全新理念定义了三件式套装,纤细的横条纹和性感的裁剪相融会,让军旅风套装完善变身。裙装工坊奇妙应用褶皱这类复杂的传统制衣工艺,不但将其用于连身裙,还打造出轻盈的褶纹花边,用来装点构造清楚的上衣和用条纹工艺罗缎新颖归纳的风雪大衣。弯曲的连身裙以通明蝉翼纱为材质,采取斜边裁剪,在外套与亵服之间,和毛边设计的雪特兰(Shetland)针织网眼下,悄然显露精致的纯棉衣饰边角。以往用于衣袖裁剪的精准几何外型在本系列中显现出轻盈的通明质感,轻巧贴合于肌肤之上。
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在相反理念的指引下,本系列摆脱了往昔的花园与花漾女郎作风,逐步过渡到一个既自然又悠远的全新范畴。卢浮宫的方形庭院摒弃了传统古装秀的限制,由外至边疆显现出源自将来的美景,流利而温婉,仿若一团团飘扬的繁花。
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“在这一系列中,我希望依靠于一些比花园愈加原始而自然的元素”,拉夫·西蒙说道。“与此同时,由于本系列仍然停留在自然的范畴内,我便希望找到一种更精准、更纯洁、更自若的全新廓型。塑造一种行将成型的永久碎片。”
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