Schiaparelli(夏帕瑞丽)于巴黎发布2015秋冬初级定制系列古装秀,这是新任设计总监Bertrand Guyon 执掌首场高定秀,便在一方T台间归纳出万千姿势,花卉长裙之飘飘欲仙、鎏金套装之高冷干练、丝绒礼服之性感妖娆,在讲究的廓形与精致的剪裁之间表达的独有的“高定态度”。
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Giambattista Valli 2015秋冬高按时装秀
Giambattista Valli(詹巴迪斯塔·瓦利)于巴黎发布2015秋冬初级定制系列古装秀,本季设计师照旧经过夸大的裙摆和布花安装艺术,表达了爱花女人最好命的特质!重磅雪纺曳地长裙,和平面花卉装点让秀场成花海!照旧张扬庞大构造和人体花园营建实际!繁复的手工感细节让人赞赏!
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Christian Dior 2015秋冬高按时装秀
欢乐花园:透过弗拉芒和法国绘画与手工艺巨匠的视野,纯真与历练、简约与豪华、美与颓丧构成鲜明反差。Christian Dior(迪奥)创意总监拉夫·西蒙(Raf Simons)显现的2015秋冬初级定制系列将弗拉芒地域文艺复后期艺术作风与法国初级定制成衣巨匠工艺合为一体,展示出一个集结工艺技术、艺术理念、历史风气,且充溢鲜明时期特点的古装系列。
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“我不断对禁果这一理念,和它在当下的意义深感兴味”,拉夫·西蒙论述道。“纯真和无辜是丰腴与颓丧的对峙面,而这些概念已在Dior迪奥花园中得以展现:这其实不是一座百花怒放的花园,而是一座充溢性别特点的花园。本系列的设计灵感源自弗拉芒艺术巨匠和他们的绘画方式:这类张力源自我们既鄙夷又珍重的豪华理念,源自艺术创作中对技术与美的完全掌控,源自这类既真实又虚幻的美感。二者相依共生,缺一不成。”
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本初级定制系列显现出明晰的历史融会与断层,既充溢艺术特点,又彰显时髦作风,展现出前一个时期的灵感与架构对后一个时期带来的影响:从前期哥特作风到文艺复兴与巴洛克时期,再到十九和二十世纪的艺术巨匠,每种流派都大体显现了不同的历史相貌。精巧的褶皱使人蔚为大观,将弗拉芒与法国艺术作风融为一体,共同的层次感使人不由联想到“厚涂”这一绘画技术。袖部设计显现出厚重的历史气味,衣物的图案设计则再现了印象派和点彩派作风,其印花图案通常以手工方式在织物上直接描画,或运用羽毛精心拼贴而成。古装与裙装工坊强强联手,共同打造出既流利又层次清楚的全新服装外型:品牌裙装独有的双绉褶纹设计摇身一变,成为双面披风的衬里,引人注视,营建出共同的单人乐趣,和可与别人同享的运用快感。大名鼎鼎的Dior大衣具有酷似中世纪末期披风的共同外型,连衣裙则充溢“美妙时期”特点,以丰盈的真丝塔夫绸营建共同风情。与此同时,Dior珠宝更显现出史无前例的豪华与张扬外型。本季珠宝系列推出了全新的藤格纹工装网眼设计,既可作为开衫与系列单品搭配,又可作为垂感十足的链条,装点一粒粒精巧吊坠。
“我希望在这一系列中彰显性感与豪华的理念”,拉夫·西蒙解释道。“但我还希望能同时显现纯真、特性和作风姿势。我常常从Dior先生的作风姿势中吸取灵感。历史影响在本系列中显现出一种真实感,而这正是其古代性之所在。场景装潢使人联想到一座充溢古代气味的点彩派教堂:一切方面都在这里聚集一处。”
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