外地工夫7月7日,Giambattista Valli(詹巴迪斯塔·瓦利)于巴黎高按时装周发布2014年秋冬初级定制系列。
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Schiaparelli 巴黎2014秋冬初级定制秀
继冬眠60 年推出首个初级定制系列以后,夏帕瑞丽(Schiaparelli)本日于巴黎再次发布2014 秋冬初级定制系列。凭仗别出心裁的共同视角,设计师马可·萨尼尼(Marco Zanini)在承继夏帕瑞丽古装屋传统精华的根底上,完善融会初级定制的高深工艺与当下古装潮流,在本季成功塑造了一个打破惯例、大胆别致亦华美冷艳的全新系列,生动再现了艾尔莎·夏帕瑞丽女士(Elsa Schiaparelli)形形色色的作风和经久不衰的魅力。
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自在不羁与成熟优雅兼具的女性气质是本季作品的最大亮点。马可·萨尼尼塑造的夏帕瑞丽女性冷静自信:她们们具有过人的胆识和巧妙的想象力,是对巴黎倾城魅力最好的诠释。如此鲜明的特性在设计师的精雕细琢下变幻为三四十年代好莱坞胶片般的绚丽色采、天马行空的印花图案、精巧绝伦的刺绣和充溢修建构造感的剪裁……流利讲究的廓形则侧重突显纤细曼妙的沙漏型腰线和结实英气的肩线。
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介于性感美艳与结实新颖之间,全新作品分发着使人难以顺从的豪华魅力。黝黑鸵鸟毛质地的短外套显现出猴子皮草般的质感。长、短款的奇妙混搭是夏帕瑞丽古装的精华。纯手工的珍贵鳄鱼皮如雪纺般质地柔软,与多彩的天然皮草流苏搭配得相得益彰。印有黑色和夏帕瑞丽标记性粉白色(shocking pink)老鼠列队图案的丝绒礼服则使人眼前一亮,为全部系列增加一抹热忱弥漫的暖色。
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滑稽风趣的手绘印花与灵动的植物图案相映成趣:Dans les ombres du jardin(常春藤枝头的夜胡蝶),Les Amis d’Elsa(猎狐梗、拳师犬和贵宾犬),Central Park(松鼠与老鼠)、Les pigeons de Notre Dame(飞鸽)……这些图腾在传统印花技术的归纳下变得栩栩如生。
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玻璃、水晶、黄铜等材质在工匠巨匠的手中化为常春藤、弓箭穿心、夜胡蝶等外型的珠宝配饰,与手工镶嵌的宝石搭扣互相照应,让人不由联想起艾尔莎·夏帕瑞丽女士曾的经典元素。由羊驼呢、羔羊皮和花斑貂皮制成的Suite N.7 手包,其上饰有灵感来源于夏帕瑞丽当年标记性金锁刺绣的锁扣,笔底生花之间彰显极致豪华,完善延续了夏帕瑞丽传奇古装屋昔日的无尚光荣与光辉。
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Valentino 2015早春度假系列配饰新品
墨西哥女画家 Kahlo Frida 以自画像出名于世,作风激烈而深入,Valentino 两位设计 Maria Grazia Chiuri 和 Pierpaolo Piccioli 对她的作品也为之着迷,更佩服她据守自我、百折不挠的生活理念,透过此季系列向她致敬。Kahlo 自画像背景中充溢意味意义的植植物,成了包包和鞋子上的铆钉装潢,另外一方面,设计师将 Valentino 先生于 1973 年创作的彩虹图样重新归纳,偶合地与 Kahlo 多彩的画风有异曲同工的地方。依据这个图样推出 Rockstud 系列的 tote bag 和 backpack,而 flap bag 则以水晶显现。鞋子方面,迷彩一款也搀杂了不同的色采,别的两款高跟凉鞋和角斗士鞋的鞋踭都用上有如彩玻璃的半通明质料,手镯也以一样方式制造,多姿多彩的七十代气氛再次完善重现。
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