好莱坞50年代复古抽象与洛杉矶古代文明的融合,勾画出往年 Brioni(布里奥尼)2015春夏系列沉着的优雅。
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本季设计灵感源自创意总监Brendan Mullane在Brioni档案馆找到的复古照片。50年代Brioni风行于好莱坞,遭到名流名流的追捧。好莱坞知名影星包括理查德·伯顿(Richard Burton)、亨利·方达(Henri Fonda)和加里·格兰特(Cary Grant)等人在Brioni试衣时期留下珍贵的照片,成为本季灵感的重要线索,重新将 Brioni 与洛杉矶这座兼具文娱产业中心与文明艺术开展沃土的城市严密联络。
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事先,Brioni凭仗 “圆柱廓形(Columnar Look)”遭到普遍的关注,这类锥形窄脚裤具有雕塑廊柱般的细长廓形,绝后地新抽象与事先主流男装南辕北辙。如今,此廓形透过精准的剪裁被重新归纳,更具古代作风,与之对应的全新搭配也由此而生:简约宽松的上衣或茄克搭配苗条裤装,展示 Brioni man 一向的优雅,构造性强的剪裁且兼具温馨。
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从清晨到日落都沐浴在暖和日光下的洛杉矶,将光辉洒向了Brioni的制衣传统和意大利血缘,谐和出一系列浓郁而又奥妙的色采:甜菜红、海蓝、卡普里深蓝、棕榈绿、薄荷绿、康乃馨红、松绿蓝和淡蓝。
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这些染上艺术光芒的色彩来自Brioni与洛杉矶艺术家James Welling的协作;Brioni对Welling的经典花朵图案停止了精心视察和研讨,并将其应用到本季的羊绒和丝绸西装、极致轻浮的丝绸衬衫和拉链茄克衫。这些真实的定制艺术品可谓Brioni和Brendan Mullane长时间寻求创新与实验的又一次精彩表现。
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Brendan也奇妙地将具有各自图纹的各色运动茄克、针织马球衫、七分裤和百慕达短裤混搭,表示大胆却又创意的mix & match。从统威尔士亲王格纹、千鸟格和人字图纹,有的佐大胆色采渲染,有的乃至包含经过手工密缝所营建的3D质感图纹。
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一系列严惩的手袋为这一季如虎添翼:它们采取双层丝绸手工提花、麂皮和小牛皮为原料打造而成,密缝千鸟格再度成为不测欣喜:而本季鞋履则是穿插系带凉鞋、缨穂或流苏乐福鞋和带有手工打造超细纤维楔形内底与固特异构造的双扣孟克鞋。
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在2015春夏系列预览上,知名美国摄影师Collier Schorr捕获 Brioni Man 空闲光阴的影象,成为预览现场亦幻亦真的背景。而预览内搭建出的玻璃屋空间,被城市日落余辉包抄,将Brioni的洛杉矶之梦照进理想。
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Dsquared² 米兰2015春夏男装秀
外地工夫6月24日,Dsquared² 于米兰男装周发布2015年春夏系列男装。笨季男装充溢着浓浓的Andy Warhol 波普艺术,色采衣饰如彩虹,肌肉线条波澜汹涌!本季Dsquared² 的标签是画室里的少年,牛崽裤上满是涂鸦的痕迹,展示“轻熟男”俏皮的一面。本季主打的荧光色不但在茄克上变幻为迷彩印花,拎包及鞋履亦被点缀的绚丽耀眼,全部秀场弥漫着青春和背叛的气味!
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Isabeli Fontana 归纳春夏时髦配饰大片
超模Isabeli Fontana(伊莎贝莉·芳塔娜)归纳《Porter》杂志2014年冬季刊配饰时髦大片,摄影师Yelena Yemchuk 执镜。
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